Padharo mharo Desh part 8

 As I started writing this I realised it's just day 3 of the trip and the first 7 parts described only the first two days! Iss rate se Udaipur ka number anetak shayad next trip ho jaye! Day 3 was a weird mix of a temple full of monkeys, an adventurous bike ride, a pink gate, kids skating, bahubali boy, and much more but it started with us stepping back in the 8th century not inside a palace or a fort this time but a stepwell. 

       Abhaneri stepwell was some distance out of the city and the driver tried to dissuade us a lot saying "kahan firangiyo ka plan follow kar rahe ho, yahan Indian nahi jate". Stubborn headed as I am, I wanted to stick to my plan and thank God we did because it was definitely a hidden treasure and I advice you all or rather command you all to include it in your Jaipur itinerary. The highway was amazing (navra oohed and aahed about it and haat mein driving ki khujli ho rahi thi usko), the landscape was green as opposed to our idea of Rajasthan. 

       Just like at Amer as we reached Abhaneri we were surrounded by firangs with just a few Indian guides in the mix. Driver uncle had a "told you so" smirk on his face whilst I gave him a "so what" hair flip (neck pained for the rest of the day). "Awe" is the only emotion one feels at the first sight of this marvel. Known as "Chand Baori" because it was built by King Chanda in the 8th-9th century, it is one of the oldest, largest and deepest stepwell of India and perhaps the world.

           It has 3500 steps (over 13 stories) that extend about 20 metres into the well and the total depth extends to approximately 100 feet into the ground. It is constructed in an upside down pyramid style. I can't do justice to it with my words, photos dekh lo par asli mein it's even more marvelous. I mean symmetrical, double flight of steps so deep imagine the mathematical precision it would have needed!The design was made with the intention to conserve as much water as possible. It is built out of porous volcanic rocks which enables the water to seep through the stones and reach to the bottom of the well. 

         On one end is a multi-storeyed pavilion with two projecting balconies enshrining sculptures of Mahishasurmardini and Ganesha. It has intricately carved jharokhas and supposedly a stage and sit-in which was used to put on shows in the olden days. The stepwell it's said was not just for conserving water but also a community meeting and entertainment place. Around the well is an arcade where beautifully carved stone idols are exhibited. 

          We didn't hire a guide here because we had read about it and there were information boards but we did do the very middle class thing of tying to overhear other guides as we tactfully strolled towards their groups. Par kya popat hua hai because the very local looking guides were spouting German and Japanese with such élan! All we could understand was that it was German and Japanese. 

       Here are some legends which I read though - folklore says the entire well was built in one night by djinns and further one person has never been able to use the same stairs to go down and come back up, also noone has ever been able to step on the same stairs twice! Ye sab ajmane nahi milta because the well is roped in. 

    After spending considerable time here marveling, eavesdropping and clicking a hundred photos we went to the Harshad Mata temple next to the stepwell. This was built by the same king around the same time in Mahameru style of architecture. Harshad Mata as the name suggests is the Goddess of happiness who spread brightness (abha) around the village and hence it was called "Abhanagari" which later became "Abhaneri". 

   The original temple is believed to have been built in the "panchyatna" style with a central shrine surrounded by four other shrines but it was destroyed and damaged by Ghazni. Nonetheless, what stands today too is beautiful with intricate sculptures all around the exterior niches and inside the temple dome on the ceiling. It does break one's heart to see the sculptures with their faces destroyed. There was some soothing mantra chanting going on and even under the noon sun it was cool inside the temple.

          Abhanagari definitely lived upto its name and we left with our hearts filled with joy and wonder.

For more pics - https://www.facebook.com/share/p/vC5u2SzP3kXTFtPy/?mibextid=oFDknk